НОВОСТИ

  • Клинические протоколы по применению продуктов ALPHASCIENCE

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  • ULTRA DEEP

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  • Vitamin C — The most advanced technology to stabilize antioxidants

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    PHYTIC [TC] SERUM:  A UNIQUE AND STABLE MOLECULAR COMBINATION  

      8% L-ASCORBIC ACID (vitamin C in its natural form)

    • Skin surface: boosts epidermical cells turnover to enhance skin radiance and refine skin texture.
    • At dermis level: significantly increases collagen and dermis component synthesis (1,2,3) to reduce wrinkles and improve skin structure.
    • One of the most powerful antioxidants to protect skin cells against external agressions (UV, stress, pollution,…). This makes L-Ascorbic Acid a must-have to prevent skin aging.
    • Anti-spot activity thanks to its antioxidant action and limitation of melanin transfer by the weakening of dendrites (4).

    2% PHYTIC ACID

    • Powerful antioxydant and anti-cancer (5)
    • Anti pollution (chelates iron and scavengers heavy metals)
    • Regulates pigmentation and normalises skin sebum rate (6)
    • Synergistic stabilization action with L-ascorbic acid.

    0,2% TANNIC ACID

    • Powerful antioxidant, neutralises pro-oxydative Fenton reaction (7)
    • Chelates iron and anti-pollution effect
    • Stimulates collagen synthesis

      

    COMPARATIVE TECHNIQUES  TO STABILIZE L-ASCORBIC ACID (VITAMIN C)

    L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C in its natural form) is highly unstable in contact with air and water oxygen, especially with warm temperature.
    Different techniques are used to stabilize it with unequal results.

      

    ADVANTAGES

    DISADVANTAGES

      

    ALPHASCIENCE TECHNOLOGY

    BIOMIMETISM — INSPIRED BY NATURE

    Molecular combination of L-ascorbic acid with powerful antioxidants.

    Excellent stability in the skin and with heat.
    Efficiency and bioavailability.

    Complex formulas

    Encapsulated L-ascorbic acid

    Easy to formulate

    Limited to medium concentrations (3 to 4%).

    Low stability.

    Vitamin C derivatives (ascorbosilane, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, etc)  

    Easy to formulate  

    Low anti-aging and antioxidant efficiency.

    Dry form of L-ascorbic acid (powder) to mix with a solution before use.

    Easy to formulate.

    Stable before mixing.

    No guarantee of stability after mixing.
    Weak penetration. Uneasy for patient.

      

    BIOMIMETISM: ALPHASCIENCE IS INSPIRED BY NATURE TO STABILIZE ANTIOXIDANTS  

    How do fruits which contain a lot of water manage to keep their vitamin C and antioxidants content stable and active?

    L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C in its natural form) is fully stable in an orange for example, because it is associated with other antioxidants such as polyphenols and flavonoids.
    This assemblage forms a complex chemical structure that is totally stable dynamically.  
      

    ALPHASCIENCE STABLE MOLECULAR COMBINATION

    By observing nature and thanks to our control of the chemical interactions between antioxidants and Vitamin C, we developed a unique associative complex of powerful antioxidants which ensures the stabilization of highly concentrated L-ascorbic acid.  

    FOR THE 1ST TIME: STABILIZATION EVIDENCE AT HIGH TEMPERATURE

    Evolution of L-Ascorbic Acid concentration in Alphascience serum
    HPLC mesures by an indépendant laboratory (SGS Multilab)

     

    Bibliography:

    1. Nusgens BV, Humbert P, Rougier A, et al. Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagens I and III, their proces- sing enzymes and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis J Invest Dermatol 2001; 116 : 853-859
    2. Stimulation of collagen gene expression by ascorbic acid in cultured human fibroblasts. A role for lipid peroxidation? M Chojkier, K Houglum, J Solis-Herruzo and D A Brenner
    3. Ascorbic acid enhances the expression of type 1 and type 4 collagen and SVCT2 in cultured human skin fibroblasts. Y Kishimoto, N Saito, K Kurita, K Shimokado
    4. Marta I. Rendon MD, Jorge I. Gaviria MD — Review of Skin-Lightening Agents — Dermatologic Surgery
    5. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 1995 Nov;35(6):495-508. Phytic acid in health and disease. Zhou JR1, Erdman JW Jr.
    6. Dr Zhong, Soongsil University
    7. Polyphenol tannic acid inhibits hydroxyl radical formation from Fenton reaction by complexing ferrous ions. George K.B. Lopes, Herbert M. Schulman, Marcelo Hermes-Lima

     

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  • Tannic Acid — A breakthrough antioxidant

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    A breakthrough antioxidant

    Where does the tannic acid come from?

    Tannic acid is a polyphenol of the family of tannins. It is present in many plants, especially oak bark, yew or Tynanthus panurensis. It is found in all parts of the plant, seeds, gall, cones and woods.

    Tannic acid is present in high concentration in the bark and the wood of Sequoia to protect it from diseases, parasites and fungi, this explains its exceptional lifespan: some sequoia specimens may well exceed 3,000 years.

    Although many trees contain some tannin, the high content in Sequoias and its cinnamon colour is the reason why the latter are often called “Redwoods”.

    How did Alfred Marchal discover the tannic acid?

    By analysing hundreds of polyphenols issued from nature and screening hose who had protective capacity superior to reference antioxidants, Alfred Marchal realized that tannic acid is highly efficient in anti-aging and anti-pollution treatments, with the many outstanding properties:

    • Protective capacity superior to reference antioxidants
    • Protects the endothelium of blood vessels, which explains his efficiency to treat bruises and redness
    • Inhibits degradation of collagen
    • Effective against skin tumors
    • Inhibits advanced glycation
    • Antifungal and antibacterial activities
    • It inhibits Fenton Reaction by complexing Fe3+

     

    What is unique in Alphascience use of tannic acid?

    As most polyphenols and antioxidants, Tannic acid is highly unstable.

    For the first time, Alphascience managed to stabilize tannic acid and use it in high concentration in its formulations to protect, restore and maintain the integrity of skin cells for exceptional protective results.

    Tannic Acid is highly synergistic with Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and empowers its antioxidant activity.

    Alphascience is the only company in the world to master the manufacturing process to achieve the right chemical interaction between the Tannic Acid and Vitamin C and make the most of their unique anti- aging and anti-pollution properties.

     

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  • Pollution and skin

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    ORIGINS AND POTENTIAL TREATMENTS

    Atmospheric pollution: a danger for the health of your skin.

    The synergistic action of environmental pro-oxidants amplifies skin aging.

    The skin is the mean interface between our body and the external environment. It acts as a biological barrier against a range of chemicals and physical environmental pollutants. It is defined as the first defense against the environment because of its constant exposure to oxidants, including ultraviolet (UV, UVA, UVB), infrared (IR), visible light (VL) and other environmental pollutants such as fine particles, diesel and domestic exhaust gases and fossil fuel combustion gases (fuel oil, coal, diesel…), cigarette smoke (CS), halogenated hydrocarbons, heavy metals and ozone (O3).

     Exposure to environmental prooxidants induces the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the generation of bioactive molecules that damage the cells of the skin (1). In China, the number of hospital visits for skin problems specially increase during episodes of atmospheric ozone pollution (2). A recent clinical study showed that pollution aggravates atopic dermatitis, with Ultra-Fine Particles (PUF or UFP) that are suspected of exacerbating the inflammation phenomenon. 

    In Caucasian-type women over 70 (3), exposure to pollution correlates with signs of skin aging such as brown spots and wrinkles. Although the mechanisms of the effects of pollution on the skin are not yet well known, the different components of pollution have been studied to understand their very harmful effects (4)

    The different atmospheric pollutants.

    The term “pollution” is usually emploied, but it globalises the large number of compounds it contains. It is composed of air pollutants from exhaust gases (CO, SO2, hydrocarbons), combustion-related emissions (NO2), ozone formed from pollutants transformed by UV rays. Pollution alsp contains solid particles, and those smaller than 2.5 micrometers are likely to reach the alveoli of the lungs and the smallest cutaneous corners such as pores.

    The main pollutants in the atmosphere can be divided into two groups: gases and solid particles (dust, fumes). It is estimated that gases account for 90% of the total mass of pollutants released into the air and particles the remaining 10%. 

    Air pollution is the result of many factors: energy production, intensive agriculture, extractive, metallurgical and chemical industries, road and air traffic, incineration of household waste and industrial waste, etc. …

    The pollutants of the atmosphere act at different scales: some gaseous compounds have no effect locally but can disrupt the global climatic balance, while others are particularly virulent for local and regional health but have a very limited influence on the atmosphere as a whole.

    Air pollution is most prevalent in urbanized and industrialized areas, not only because of the concentration of industries and domestic households, but also because of the movement of motor vehicles. The spread of large cities has as a corollary transport needs ever more numerous. There is also the burning of tropical vegetation from slash-and-burn agriculture that releases soot, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons, nitric oxide and nitrogen dioxide.

    This pollution remains one of the most important. Pollution is therefore a multiple phenomenon and complex to comprehend in its entirety.

    Air pollutants and their impacts on the skin. 

    Pollutants

    Origin

    Impacts on skin

     

    Nitrogen oxide

    NOx

    NOx = NO + NO2

     

    All high temperature combustions of fossil fuels (coal, fuel oil, gasoline). Nitrogen monoxide NO emitted by the exhaust pipes oxidizes in the air and turns into nitrogen dioxide NO2 which is 90% a secondary pollutant

     

     

    Increased appearance of pigment spots (+ 10µm3 -> + 25% of pigment spots)

     

     

    Hydrocarbures aromatiques polycycliques (HAP) et composés organiques volatils (COV)

     

     

     

    Incomplete combustion, use of solvents (paints, glues) and degreasers, cleaning products, filling of automobile tanks, tanks …

     

     

     

     

    Skin cancer (carcinoma) if direct contact (5)

     

     

     

     

    Ozone (O3)

     

    Secondary pollutant, produced in the atmosphere by solar radiation by complex reactions between certain primary pollutants (NOx, CO, VOC) and main indicator of the intensity of photochemical pollution

     

     

    Causes the appearance of wrinkles Causes inflammation of the skin: the skin is then irritated and reactive

     

     

     

     

    Particles or dust in suspension (PM)

     

    Industrial or domestic combustion, diesel and natural road transport (volcanism, eruptions) Classified according to their size:

    — PM10 diameter <10 µm (retained at the nose and upper lanes)

    — PM2.5 diameter <2.5 µm (penetrate deeply into the respiratory system)

     

     

    May cause irritation and allergies

     

     

     

     

     

    Sulfur Dioxide (SO2)

     

     

     

    Combustion of fossil fuels (fuel oil, coal, lignite, diesel …) Nature also emits sulfur products

     

     

    Alterations of the hydrolipidic film of the skin which causes irritation of the mucous membranes and skin

     

     

     

     

    Carbon monoxide (CO)

     

     

     

     

    Incomplete combustion (gas, coal, oil or wood) and vehicle

    exhaust

     

    Responsible for tissue hypoxia (lack of oxygen supply to tissues) which slows down the metabolism of the skin causing:

    — Dull complexion

    — Skin aging Drought

     

     

    Heavy metals, lead, mercury, arsenic, cadmium, nickel

     

     

    Comes from the combustion of coals, oils, garbage and some industrial processes

     

     

    Attack the membranes by weakening them. Decrease tissue oxygenation.

     

       

    Clinical manifestations of pollution on our skin.

    Exposure to an atmosphere laden with ozone and pollutants generates oxidative stress, with an outbreak of free radicals and a reduction in the level of key cutaneous antioxidants such as vitamin E and vitamin C (6).

    Overall, the effects of long-term exposure to intensive pollution is manifested in vivo by a loss of radiance, a drop in skin hydration, the eruption of redness or acne and especially premature aging.

    Studies showed that women living in urban areas have deeper wrinkles and more pigment spots on their faces than women living in the countryside (7). 

    The pollution would cause an over-secretion of sebum (8), making the skin more oily and prone to imperfections, making the complexion duller, causing premature aging of the skin with deeper wrinkles, more pigment spots and sagging skin (9). The cocktail effect of pollutants attack the membranes of our skin cells making them more reactive and sensitive, which increases the risk of developing eczema, dermatitis or psoriasis. 

    Solutions to fight against the effects of pollution.

    The cleansing ritual of the skin is an essential element to keep skin healthy. The urban lifestyle tends to disrupt the essential functions of our skin, making it more oily, dull and easily prone to imperfections. First, it is crucial to clean the skin thoroughly to remove particles and debris that settle on our skin, before applying any other care.

     Thus the action of pollutants on the skin must be neutralized and our cells need to be protected from oxidative stress. At Alphascience, we have worked on combinations of actives that will act on most pollutants, their synergistic action with UV and oxidative stress:

    • L-ascorbic Acid: limits damage to UV-related cell DNA (10). It is a powerful antioxidant.
    • Phytic Acid: regulates deregulation of sebum due to pollution (11), transforms metals into inert salt (12), neutralizes the effect of PAH, regulates the production of melanin.
    • Tannic Acid: a chelator of metals (13), acts in synergy with vitamin C and enhances its antioxidant activity by inhibiting the Fenton reaction (14).
    • Ginkgo biloba: improves the irrigation of tissues to improve the radiance of the complexion, to offset the effects of carbon monoxide.
    • Ferulic Acid: repairs cellular damage related to UV and pollution (15).

    These actives are also powerful antioxidants that act in synergy to neutralize the oxidative stress associated with the combination of UV and pollution. To go further, it is necessary to measure the impact at the cellular skin level of the combination of UV and pollution, as well as the effectiveness of the assets. Alphascience’s scientific teams are developing a novel clinical study on these topics. 

    The author: Alfred MARCHAL, PhD in organic chemistry and MBA, is an internationally- recognized antioxidants and aesthetic medicine expert. He has 35-year academic experience in R&D for pharmaceutical organic synthesis and phyto pharmaceuticals. Author of many scientific articles and patents in particular for vitamin C, vitamin K and hyaluronic acid. He runs ALPHASCIENCE Research Department and is board member in pharmaceutical companies.  

     Bibliography:

    1. Jérémie Soeur*, J-P. Belaïdi, C. Chollet, L. Denat, A. Dimitrov, C. Jones, P. Perez, M. Zanini, O. Zobiri, S. Mezzache, D. Erdmann, G. Lereaux, J. Eilstein, L. Marrot. Photo-pollution stress in skin: Traces of pollutants (PAH and particulate matter) impair redox homeostasis in keratinocytes exposed to UVA1. Journal of Dermatological Science 86 (2017) 162-169.
    2. Jean Krutmann, M.D., Anne Bouloc, M.D., Ph.D., Gabrielle Sore, Ph.D., Bruno A. Bernard, Ph.D. The skin aging exposome. Journal of Dermatological Science 85 (2017) 152–161
    3. Frederic Flament, Roland Bazin, Sabine Laquieze, Virginie Rubert, Elisa Simonpietri, Bertrand Piot, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2013 :6 221–232
    4. Jean Krutmann, M.D., Anne Bouloc, M.D., Ph.D., Gabrielle Sore, Ph.D., Bruno A. Bernard, Ph.D.The skin aging exposome. Journal of Dermatological Science 85 (2017) 152–161
    5. www.thelancet.com/oncology Vol 10 December 2009
    6. Jean Krutmann, M.D., Anne Bouloc, M.D., Ph.D., Gabrielle Sore, Ph.D., Bruno
    7. A. Bernard, Ph.D. The skin aging exposome. Journal of Dermatological Science 85 (2017) 152–161
    8. Jean Krutmann, M.D., Anne Bouloc, M.D., Ph.D., Gabrielle Sore, Ph.D., Bruno A. Bernard, Ph.D. The skin aging exposome. Journal of Dermatological Science 85 (2017) 152–161
    9. Jean Krutmann, Dominique Moyal, Wei Liu, Sanjiv Kandahari, Geun-Soo Lee, Noppakun Nopadon, Leihong Flora Xiang, Sophie Seité, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2017 :10 199–204
    10. Pollution as a Risk Factor for the Development of Melasma and Other Skin Disorders of Facial Hyperpigmentation ‐ Is There a Case to Be Made? Journal of Drug in Dermatology. April 2015. Wendy E. Roberts MD FAAD
    11. Stimulation of collagen gene expression by ascorbic acid in cultured human fibroblasts. A role for lipid peroxidation? M Chojkier, K Houglum, J Solis-Herruzo and D A Brenner Dr Zhong, Soongsil University
    12. Phytic Acid Protective Effect Against Beef Round Muscle Lipid Peroxidation. BEOM JUN LEE, DELOY G. HENDRICKS
    13. Rice-Evans, 1995 and Liyana-Pathirana and Shahidi, 2006
    14. Rice-Evans,1995andLiyana-PathiranaandShahidi,2006
    15. Hyung Jin Hahn, Ki Bbeum Kim1, Seunghee Bae, Byung Gon Choi, Sungkwan An, Kyu Joong Ahn, Su Young Kim. Pretreatment of Ferulic Acid protects human dermal fibroblasts against ultraviolet a irridation. Ann Dermatol, Vol.28, No. 6, 2016.

     

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